The Wave Catcher

It was a sunny August day in 1912. A crowd gathered near the ocean in New Jersey. They watched the glittering water, waiting.  

A man lay on a long wooden board, paddling through the water. A large wave curled toward him. With a quick hop, the man stood up and glided along the wave.

At first, the crowd was silent. Was he standing on water? Then they cheered! For most of them, this was their first time seeing someone surf. They were watching an athlete from Hawaii. His name was Duke Kahanamoku (kah-hah-nah-MOH-koo). And he was on a mission to bring surfing to America.

It was a sunny August day in 1912. A crowd waited near the ocean in New Jersey. They were watching the sparkling water.  

A man lay on a long wooden board. He was paddling through the water. A large wave came toward him. The man hopped up quickly. He stood on his board. Then he glided along the wave!

At first, the crowd was silent. Was he standing on water? Then they cheered! For most of them, this was their first time seeing someone surf. They were watching an athlete from Hawaii. His name was Duke Kahanamoku (kah-hah-nah-MOH-koo). And he was on a mission to bring surfing to America.

Surfing was new to the crowd in New Jersey. But in Hawaii, it was nearly 1,000 years old. To Native Hawaiians, surfing was known as he‘e nalu (HEH-eh NAH-lu), or wave sliding. They told stories of powerful gods and goddesses surfing the seas. 

Duke was born and raised in Honolulu, Hawaii’s largest city. He loved surfing, but he first became famous as a swimmer. At age 20, Duke shattered a swimming world record with his incredible speed. A year later, in 1912, he became the first Hawaiian athlete to win an Olympic medal! 

After that, Duke was invited to show off his swimming skills across the U.S. Back then, most Americans didn’t know much about Hawaii. The islands weren’t a state yet. So Duke used his fame to teach people about Hawaiian culture and share surfing with America.

As he toured the country, people were impressed with Duke’s surfing stunts. They wanted to try surfing too!

Surfing was new to the crowd in New Jersey. But in Hawaii, it was nearly 1,000 years old. To Native Hawaiians, surfing was known as he‘e nalu (HEH-eh NAH-lu). That means wave sliding. Native Hawaiians told stories of powerful gods and goddesses who surfed the seas.  

Duke was born and raised in Honolulu. That is Hawaii’s largest city. He loved surfing. But he also became a famous swimmer. At age 20, Duke broke a swimming world record with his incredible speed. Then, in 1912, he became the first Hawaiian athlete to win an Olympic medal! 

After that, Duke was asked to show off his swimming skills across the U.S. Back then, most Americans didn’t know much about Hawaii. Hawaii wasn’t a state yet. So Duke used his fame to teach people about Hawaiian culture and share surfing with America.

As he traveled the country, people were impressed with Duke’s surfing stunts. They wanted to try surfing too!

By the 1940s, Americans were going surf crazy. Sunny beaches were packed with surfers. Kids who didn’t live near the beach dreamed about surfing. It became more than a sport. It was about letting go of your worries, feeling close to nature, and having fun, dude.

As for Duke, he became known as the father of modern surfing. He won four more Olympic medals for the U.S. swim team, but his dream was to see surfing become an Olympic sport. Sadly, he died in 1968 before it came true. 

In 2021, surfers competed in the Olympics for the first time. Carissa Moore, who was born and raised in Duke’s beloved Hawaii, won the gold for Team USA. Surely the father of modern surfing would have been proud. 

By the 1940s, Americans were going surf crazy. Sunny beaches were packed with surfers. Kids who didn’t live near the beach dreamed about surfing. It became more than a sport. It was about letting go of your worries, feeling close to nature, and having fun, dude.

As for Duke, he became known as the father of modern surfing. He won four more Olympic medals for the U.S. swim team. But his dream was to see surfing become an Olympic sport. Sadly, he died in 1968 before it came true. 

In 2021, surfers competed in the Olympics for the first time. Carissa Moore was one of them. She is a surfer who was born and raised in Duke’s beloved Hawaii. She won the gold for Team USA! Duke, the father of modern surfing, would have been proud. 

The moment was finally here. Carissa Moore paddled out into the choppy Pacific Ocean. Salt water sprayed her face. She steered her foam and plastic surfboard—built for speed—toward the powerful waves ahead.

It was the final round of the Olympics. Two surfers remained. But only one would become the first female surfer to win an Olympic gold medal. 

Carissa had been training for years. Would she go home with the gold?

The moment was finally here. Carissa Moore paddled out into the rough waves in the Pacific Ocean. Salt water splashed her face. Her surfboard (made of foam and plastic) was built for speed. She was heading toward the powerful waves ahead. It was the final round of the Olympics. Two surfers remained. But only one would become the first female surfer to win an Olympic gold medal. 

Carissa had been training for years. Would she go home with the gold?

Carissa grew up surfing in the blue-green waters of Hawaii. She was just 5 years old the first time she rode a wave.

“I was immediately hooked,” she remembers. 

At 18, Carissa won her first surfing world championship. She set a world record for being the youngest person to win this competition—and went on to win it four more times!

But there was one award the surfing star hadn’t been able to win: an Olympic medal. Surfing wasn’t part of the Olympics until the 2021 Summer Olympics. Surfers finally had a chance to go for gold—and Carissa was ready!

After three days of spectacular tricks, Carissa made it to the final round. The water roared in her ears as she jumped onto her board. Whoosh! With accuracy and speed, she sliced through walls of water like a knife. When the timer sounded, the judges announced the champion: Carissa Moore! 

Carissa grew up surfing in the blue-green waters of Hawaii. She was 5 years old the first time she rode a wave.

“I was immediately hooked,” she remembers. 

Carissa won her first surfing world championship when she was 18. She set a world record for being the youngest person to win this competition. She went on to win it four more times!

But there was one award the surfing star hadn’t been able to win: an Olympic medal. Surfing wasn’t part of the Olympics until the 2021 Summer Olympics. Surfers finally had a chance to go for gold. Carissa was ready!

After three days of spectacular tricks, Carissa made it to the final round. The sound of the water was loud in her ears. She jumped onto her board. Whoosh! Carissa and her surfboard sliced through walls of water like a knife. She was speedy and accurate. The timer sounded and the judges announced the champion: Carissa Moore! 

Like many surfers, Carissa is inspired by Duke Kahanamoku. His dream was to see surfing in the Olympics. More than fifty years after Duke’s death, Carissa is proud to have represented Hawaii in the Olympics—and to have won the first Olympic gold medal in women’s surfing!

“This was Duke’s dream, for surfing to be in the Olympics,” she said. “I wanted to make Hawaii proud.” 

Carissa certainly achieved her goal. She inspires girls in Hawaii and beyond to try surfing and follow their dreams. And in 2021, the mayor of Honolulu, Hawaii, announced that October 6 would officially be “Carissa Moore Day.” Every year, the state of Hawaii honors the talent and hard work of their gold medalist surfer—and all of the surfers who came before her. 

Like many surfers, Carissa is inspired by Duke Kahanamoku. His dream was to see surfing in the Olympics. Carissa is proud to have represented Hawaii in the Olympics more than fifty years after Duke’s death. And she’s proud to have won the first Olympic gold medal in women’s surfing!

“This was Duke’s dream, for surfing to be in the Olympics,” she said. “I wanted to make Hawaii proud.” 

Carissa definitely achieved her goal. She inspires girls in Hawaii and beyond to try surfing and follow their dreams. In 2021, the mayor of Honolulu, Hawaii, made an announcement. October 6 would officially be “Carissa Moore Day.” Every year, the state of Hawaii honors the talent and hard work of their gold medalist surfer. This day also remembers all of the surfers who came before her.